The barhoppers' guide to Lapa

Lapa's revival from no-go zone to arguably Rio’s party central has been largely down to the renaissance of its music scene over the past 15 years. But if samba isn’t your thing, fear not. The humble drinker is also overwhelmed with choice here, from the most traditional of botequims to stylish bars that rival anything in Zona Sul, so while Friday nights may have the best energy, it is now worth a trip any day of the week.

Before crossing under the famous white Arches of the aquaduct, take a detour down a sidestreet to the Beco do Rato (Rua Joaquim Silva 11, 2508 5600). The paintings of scenes from Lapa’s decadent past adorning the walls should help whet the appetite for an evening of debauchery. Beco has a packed schedule of music, but an unpretentious and up-for-it crowd fills the bar area from early on if all you fancy is a couple of sharpeners.

From there, swing round to start the night in earnest on Avenida Mem de Sa, Lapa’s main street. Here, the revellers congregate en masse, making it tempting to simply pass the entire night sipping the potent (and sizeable) caipirinhas from street stands. Don’t be fooled by appearances however. Lapa may have smartened up its image but there is still a seedy underbelly lurking around the corner, and you would do well to leave valuables at home and watch your bag in the crowds.

Replacing the rough-and-ready Carlitos on the corner of Mem de Sá and Rua Riachuelo is the new addition Só Kana. Chairs spill out on the streets making this the perfect spot to share a cervejinha (cheeky little beer) or three with friends and people watch while the roads fill up.

Moving on to something stronger – it’s all about pacing yourself here – scoot along a few doors down to Bar Leviano (Avenida Mem de Sá 47, 2507 5779). The caipirinhas and other cocktails are prepared with a flair Tom Cruise would be proud of in this (unusually for Lapa) chic venue. Grab a seat upstairs and enjoy the view. One of the classier bars in Lapa and a relatively new addition, Leviano is already getting a good reputation for its tasty bar snacks. Try the bolinho de feijoada (fried bean-stew balls), but do leave space for the delicious brownies.

Further down Mem de Sá, head to Boteco da Garrafa (Avenida Mem de Sá 77, 2507 1976) for one of the best selections of beer to be found in Lapa. The chopp, Brazil’s ubiquitous mini-version of the pint, has been replaced here by bottled beer from as far afield as Germany and Argentina as well as the best Brazil has to offer, all served up super-cold in buckets of ice.

With time marching on, it’s time to stagger towards Bar da Boa (Avenida Mem de Sá 69), better known as the Antarctica bar. Here, there is no need for the tipsy to negotiate complicated transactions with the waiter. Just line up at the vending machines stocking one of city’s best-loved (and carnival-sponsoring) beers. Rest assured that even on the most sweltering of Carioca nights, it will be ice-cold. As if to underline the point, a flock of the brand’s signature penguins line the blue walls.

Those who make it this far down will find a wealth of gems on Avenida Gomes Freire, just off Mem de Sá. With less mainstream appeal but eclectic charm in spades, the Lapa Café (Avenida Gomes Freire 457, 3971 6812) with its selection of 150 beers, has legions of fans among those in the know. Anyone sober enough to still be able to at this stage can read about the history of beer in Brazil, and there is even an exhibition space and a jukebox in this delightfully idiosyncratic spot.

Lapa first timers desperate to check out Rio’s world-famous nightclub Rio Scenarium could do worse than pop in beforehand to its sister bar Santo Scenarium (Rua do Lavradio 36, 3147 9007) for a saideira (one for the road). This artfully decorated venue hosts jazz and choro bands inside, and is filled with religious artefacts that lend a grand aspect to the typically Lapa exposed brickwork interior. That said, you can’t beat sitting outside in the centre of what is by day Rio’s antiques market and watching the world go by. 

As we all know, that one last drink can turn into many. As the sun starts to rise and you crawl back towards the taxi rank in Mem de Sa, a toasted sandwich and a burger in Casa da Cachaca (Avenida Mem de Sá 110) is best washed down with a final cerveja (beer). The term 'no frills' may just have been invented for this place, but that doesn’t stop the hordes pouring in. If you haven’t made new friends already, this bar is a great location to start chatting (absolute rubbish) to those on a neighbouring table, before hailing a cab and getting home to reflect on a job well done.