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Metrô General Osório
With its spectacular setting beside Gávea's planetarium and sleek, contemporary mix of bar, restaurant and club, 00 (Zero Zero) has long been a hipster fixture on Rio's nightlife scene. Owner Arnaldo de Merian brought the focus squarely back onto the food with 00 Café Bistro, open since early 2012.
Located on the peaceful Rua Barão de Torre side of Praça Nossa Senhora de Paz, the team behind 00 Café Bistro aims to bring the original intentions for the Gávea club to the fore: contemporary cuisine, an aspect that was slowly eroded as the original venue became more focussed on clubbing.
Clubbing may not be the sole focus, but 00 Café Bistrô is ideal for upscale after-work drinks and dinner. The restaurant boasts an extensive cocktail menu with touches of ginger, coconut, as well as the beloved Brazilian classics. Start the night off with a round of yellow fruit caipirinhas (R$14) filled to the brim with mango and passion fruit. The appetizers on offer are as plentiful as they are inventive, but the crispy fish with mashed banana, coconut foam and pepper served in a coconut (R$24) is positively addictive and completely unmissable.
00 Café Bistrô takes the classic French concept of the casual homecooking haven and builds on it in typically carioca fashion to create dishes that are elevated and relatively more affordable than at nearby Leblon hotspots. Chef Pedro Warth, formerly of Fasano, has developed a menu full of creative twists such as tea-poached salmon served with quinoa (R$47), a light snapper with honey, lemon and hearts of palm (R$49), alongside classic Brazilian dishes such as the moqueca fish stew (R$48). Furthermore, an innovative blind tasting menu (as seems de rigeur for any contemporary chef at the moment) to be crafted from what is seasonal and simply in the kitchen at the time, is offered to adventurous foodies who reserve a day in advance.
While the cozy Ipanema space contrasts with the original 00’s indoor/outdoor trademark, the character and décor certainly nods to the elder sibling. The modern edge cement, wood and muslin curtain aesthetic and ten seater are all classic 00, but with added quirky features such as the endless striplight corridors of the bathroom cubicles specially installed by artist Alexandre Mazza.
17 Apr 2013.