The Lord Jim
Telephone (21) 2147 8259
Metrô bus Nossa Senhora da Paz
It isn’t every day that an Ipanema art gallery housing works by one of the country’s most beloved neo-pop artists decides to turn its hand to the world of cuisine, but then this isn’t just any old corner of Ipanema, and this isn’t your average entrepreneur. Jorge de Sá, son of '80s samba-pop queen Sandra de Sá, is the face behind Riso, a beautifully restored villa filled not just with random amps, guitars and retro toys, but more notably a host of Romero Britto paintings adorning the walls, and platefuls of risotto emerging from the kitchen.
Competing with the huge variety (thirteen at the current count) of creamy Italian dishes are the cocktails, however, presented on an iPad to aid the decision process (or slow it down, depending on your decision-making faculties). We grabbed a perfectly blended mojito and a sweet house Riso (ginger, apple and vodka) to go with a pretty starter of firm foie gras and sweet cooked figs, alongside a rather more delicate ceviche namorado picante, strips of lightly spiced white fish served on fine slices of green apple.
As for the mainstay of the house, the risotto doesn't disappoint. The potentially tricky lemon and leek combination was deliciously tangy without getting too much thanks to more namorado, but the sesame-encrusted tuna on sake-soaked rice stole the show. The frutos do mar seafood effort, complete with lurking flakes of tender fish within and octopus and shrimp perching above, could also do no wrong, but whether for a hearty dose of Italian-meets-Brazilian cuisine or a late afternoon cocktail, Riso will put a smile on your face.
13 Mar 2013.