Join the party in the weeks leading up to the main event, at escola de samba rehearsals throughout the city
It takes blood, sweat and tears – plus lots of fun, partying and high spirits – to create the amazing spectacle that is Carnival at the Sambódromo. Even better than the main event, for many, are the lively parties that comprise the samba school rehearsals, which take place all over the city in the weeks and months leading up to Carnival. They're a chance for the participants to learn the song (enredo) for that year's parade, for the drummers to get in step, for the dancers to crank up the heat, and for the neighbourhood in general to start celebrating.
The basics Don't let the term 'rehearsal' confuse you – a samba school rehearsal is as much a party as a chance for the school to practice its song and its moves. Everyone's welcome – get involved if you know some samba steps, or just enjoy the party. They can be crowded, sometimes slightly chaotic events so take care, especially if you're heading to an out-of-the-way school, to work out how you're getting home beforehand, and leave valuables at home.
Read on for a breakdown of the city's top 14 samba schools – the ones that will participate in the main event at the Sambódromo – with links to full listings for the rehearsals of each school.
Rua São Vicente 127, Bela Vista, 3105 8725, vaivai.com.br
With a mostly outdoor practice site squeezed between high-rises in Bixiga, 82-year-old Vai-Vai is arguably the city’s best-known samba school. Last year’s Carnival champs, they hope to maintain the title this year with a theme honouring women.
Avenida Mazzei 722, Tucuruvi, 2204 7342, academicosdotucuruvi.com.br
Runners-up Tucuruvi surprised Carnival revellers with a poignant, exuberant homage to São Paulo’s army of migrant workers from the North East. This year’s African-focused theme surely means another round of jaw-dropping floats and costumes.
Rua Cabo João Monteiro da Rocha 447, Vila Maria, 2981 3154, unidosdevilamaria.com.br
The home-team from Vila Maria barely lost second-place last year to Zona Norte neighbour Tucuruvi with an Amazon-centred theme that featured a mock-up of the famous Manaus opera house. This year’s esoteric theme – creation – is open to interpretation.
Avenida Abrão Ribeiro 503, Barra Funda, 9872 4832, manchaverde.com.br
Featuring a rabidly boisterous group of fans, the official samba school of the Palmeiras football club has a green stain as its mascot. One of the city’s youngest samba schools – only competing since 1996 – Mancha’s theme this year is ‘humility’.
Rua Cristina Tomaz 183, Bom Retiro, 3221 2066, gavioes.com.br
Representing another of São Paulo’s big football clubs – Corinthians – Gaviões reached for the stars with the emirate of Dubai as last year’s theme. This year, the ‘Hawks’ hope to capture first place with a homage to popular ex-president Lula.
Avenida Presidente Castelo Branco 7683, Barra Funda, 3872 8262, aguiadeouro.com.br
Based in Perdizes, Águia de Ouro hasn’t won a major championship yet, but they were cooking with gas last year – the local gas company sponsors the school. This year, it’s all about Brazil’s Tropicália musical movement from the ’60s.
Avenida Casa Verde 3498, Limão, 3857 7525, mocidadealegre.com.br
‘Carrousel of Illusions’ only took the Zona Norte favourite to seventh-place last year, but with this year’s theme – centred on Afro-Brazilian Candomblé deity Xangô – Mocidade hopes to regain the championship they last won in 2009.
Rua Coronel Euclides Machado 1066, Limão, 3931 4555, sociedaderosasdeouro.com.br
Conquering the crowds in 2010 with their first-place-winning chocolate theme, Rosas – which was started under the auspices of Rio powerhouse Mangueira – hopes to capture another win with a Hungarian-themed show. You can’t say they’re not original.
Rua Sérgio Tomás 622, Bom Retiro, 3494 9040, grestommaior.com.br
Started in 1973 by splitters from smallish samba school Camisa Verde e Branco, the closest Tom Maior has come to a big-boy championship was fifth place in 2008. Ex-Prez Lula was last year’s theme, and they’re going for ‘peace on earth’ in 2012.
Avenida Luís Dummont Vilares 324, Vila Guilherme, 2959 3377, x9paulistana.com.br
With green, red and white as its colours, ‘Shees-Nove’ Paulistana has only won the main competition twice in 36 years. Last year’s theme – a homage to Brazilian comedian Renato Aragão – gives way to this year’s paean to the drylands of the North East.
Rua Girassol 51, Vila Madalena, 3031 9349, gresperolanegra.com.br
Representing Vila Madalena, Pérola Negra – Black Pearl – has been in and out of the Grupo Especial six times, consistently ranking near the bottom of the big schools, poor things. Paulista beach town Itanhaém is the subject of this year’s theme.
Avenida Engenheiro Caetano Álvares 2042, Casa Verde, 3965 4319, imperiodecasaverde.com.br
Freshly formed in 1994, Império has already won twice during its teenaged life as a samba school. Located just down the road from the Sambadrome, they squeaked by last year with a samba-and-beer-themed show, sponsored by big-named brewery, Schin.
Avenida Embaixador Macedo Soares 1018, Lapa, 3831 4002, escoladesambadragoes.com.br
This 11-year-old school is making its first appearance in the Grupo Especial after wowing revellers with a theme of fairy tales and childhood stories. The Dragons hope to keep the cute streak going this year with a theme honouring mothers.
Rua James Holland 663, Santa Cecília, 3392 4982, camisaverde.net
The Barra Funda-based school, whose name means ‘green and white shirt’, has been on a roller coaster ride since 2002, when it peaked as vice-champs in the main parade. Last year’s theme: Avenida Paulista. This year? It’s all about love, baby.
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What is the best rehearsal please? I will be in Sao Paolo for 2 weeks and I hope to try one.
Posted on Wed 08 Feb 2012 08:52:22