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You could easily overlook this low-key boteco, unless it’s a Saturday afternoon, when crowds spill out the door. Quench your thirst here after a trip to the Benedito Calixto market, or a nose around Choque Cultural, just a few steps away. Be prepared to wait for a table outside, or head inside to grab a table in a space adorned with football team strips. Don’t miss the famed baião de dois (from R$28) – a north-eastern buttery rice dish studded with jerky.