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If the city won’t go to the beach, bring the beach to the city. That’s the creed of Florianópolis fisherman Renato Silvy Andrade, who opened this small boteco. With its scattering of tables outside on the pavement, and a handful inside, it’s a family affair here, and as simple and welcoming as if you were at a beach barraca (tent). Feast on the plump oysters, delivered from Floripa by plane on Tuesdays and Fridays, and served fresh, with lime. Team them with an artisanal cachaça, followed by a plate of heavenly, crunchy fried sardines or a casquinha de siri – stuffed crab shell.