A small French bistro with a big reputation, Le Jazz is packed, more often than not. Once you've secured a table (arrive early, or be prepared to wait) opt for the tabu de charcuterie starter (R$38.50). Its deep, rich terrine de campagne (a pâté-like mix of meats) and magret fumé (smoked duck breast) were instant hits, as were the rillettes (pâté), torresmo (crunchy pork fat), and the variety of meats and pickles. Perhaps thanks to a flustered kitchen in the Friday night rush, on the night Time Out went the entrecôte (R$38.50) came sadly overcooked; and the tagine de cordeiro (lamb tagine, R$35) – well, the chef must be in love, as they say round here. Oversalted, its sublime touches were lost in translation. Possibly we were unlucky, given the superb starters, but Le Jazz left us singing les bleus.