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Something about the dining room at La Mar makes it one of the most pleasant spaces we’ve had the good fortune to dine in recently. Large, bright and high-ceilinged, with rich splashes of electric turquoise, the delightful surroundings prepare you for the equally fresh, zingy flavours of the house speciality: ceviche. But not so fast: order up a Pisco sour as you check the menu. Go for the ceviche tasting menu if you’d like a selection; but whatever you do, don’t miss the dazzling Nikkei ceviche, with tuna, and marvel at the rich, sweet and savoury flavour of the sesame and leche-de-tigre (tigers’ milk) sauce. The desserts are less of a triumph – take it from us and give the gloopy, overly sweet suspiro Limeño a wide berth.