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A tumble down the rabbit hole might – just might – prepare you for Mercearia do Conde. The ceiling groans under a collection of bewinged angels and pink, wand-bearing fairies that gently rotate overhead, while the plates are gaily and wantonly mismatched. The food can be good, but is occasionally patchy and errs a little on the conventional side. The chicken pie has long been a favourite of ours; but last time, pluckier, we went for duck with rice ‘old Lisbon style’, which came with shredded duck, cooked pear pieces and a dusting of garam masala – good and homely, but not revving up the taste buds too much. The desserts are mainly unexciting – we’ve tried several, and most of them can comfortably be given a big, pink raspberry.