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São Paulo: Thunder in the Vicinity
Eccentric decor meets fresh Mediterranean fare
Nato Justino/Press Image
Only the most unobservant of diners will fail to notice the eclectic, and at times kitsch, decor as they step through the door at this Itaim restaurant. Think leopard print upholstery, cup-and-saucer chandeliers and a profusion of art. The eccentric personality of the original chef, Cassio Machado, is imprinted quite literally on the walls – the decor and showcase of paulistano art was created in homage to Brazilian artist Di Cavalcanti.
The main attraction though is the outstanding food created by Mariana Fonseca, the new chef and owner, who has taken inspiration from Portugal and Greece, where she worked for many years. Be transported straight to a Greek taverna with the outstanding polvo grelhado – grilled octopus with paprika. Don’t miss the chef’s signature dish – atum fresco – tender tuna served with a wasabi and mustard cream. Leave room for dessert: Fonseca’s creativity doesn’t stop at the mains. Try the terrine de goiabada (a guava sweet) with cheese sauce. Simply delicious.
By Barbara Arvanitidis
R$34-$58; lunch R$29.90; couvert R$12
Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; 1-5pm, 8pm-1am Sat
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