Biondi (closed)

Critics' choice

A minimalist twist on classic Italian delights every time

Giselle Tessler/Press image
Inside at Biondi

Closed for refurbishment as of February 2014

It’s all about consistency in the restaurant business; keeping up the standards day in, day out. And with Biondi we should know – we’ve been back three times now: it’s that good. The faux-crumbling brick and plaster frontage contrasts with a modern interior, all hushed tones, woods and beige leather. Floor to ceiling windows create a bright, airy space during the day, while in the evening large circular lamps and naked light bulbs lend an intimate glow. 

Whether you go for the simple lunch menu or the full tasting menu (surprisingly good value at R$140 for 6 courses), this is gloriously good food. In the tasting menu, a series of finely crafted dishes – classic Italian cooking adapted to Brazilian ingredients – arrive beautifully presented. We started with a Caprese salad – a row of tomato slices, confit tomato, pesto, and creamy buffalo mozzarella (made in São Paulo state) – and ended on a trio of panna cotta, via a series of pasta, seafood and meat dishes.

The à la carte options are refreshingly few. Funghi fans will love the rich, creamy porcini risotto with a taleggio cream, or the truffle gnocchi, both of which can be ordered in half sizes, leaving more room for dessert.

By Catherine Balston

Biondi (closed) details

Address Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 1026

Itaim Bibi, São Paulo

Telephone (11) 3078 5273

Biondi (closed) website

Main courses R$46-$79

Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 7.30pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun


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