Italian restaurant goes from strength to strength
Antonio Rodrigues/Press Image
La vera bisteca alla fiorentina at Mangiare
Despite its distance from the epicurean epicentre of the city (namely Jardins), Mangiare is full of gourmet surprises. Hidden away in Vila Leopoldina, a fast-growing neighbourhood in the west of the city, Mangiare is playing a risky numbers game, packing in as many diners as possible to its former warehouse space.
On our first visit, a few weeks after the restaurant opened at the end of 2011, we were seduced at first by the expansive but pleasantly cosy space, mixing the right amount of rustic and modern. But what came next was so disappointing we promised to come back when the restaurant had settled into more of a rhythm. And as the saying goes, patience is a virtue. Mangiare, we can confidently say, is now running like a finely tuned orchestra – pastas are served al dente, grilled meats are succulent, and the waiters are calm and collected.
Don’t skip the delicious couvert of homemade breads. The maltagliati pasta with Bolognese ragoût (R$32) is a delicious option, but if you’re dining à deux, try the la vera bisteca alla fiorentina (R$120 for two people) – a T-bone steak covered in garlic and rosemary. To top it all off, trust us, the trio dell’amore (R$15), made with Brazilian AMMA chocolate, is a triple treat.
By Silvio Giannini
Main courses R$32-$60
Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat; noon-5pm, 7pm-11pm Sun
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