Despite their undeniable dazzle and glamour, fashion shows have fallen behind the curve when it comes to consumer interaction. The end result of months of work – by designers, stylists and other artists – may be elegantly swathed around a little runway model for all to admire, but our inability to pull back the curtain and witness the level of craft that goes into each piece leaves us with a definite disconnect.
Bridging the gap between fashionistas and fashion pros by using promiscuous artist mash-ups and ample audience participation, the installation MOVE! comes to São Paulo intent on giving the bedazzled, often monotonous, world of fashion a humorous twist.
The latest edition of this novel project will be a spin on the 2010 show presented at PS1, a space associated with the Museum of Modern Art in the neighbourhood of Long Island City, New York. The project was the love child of a union between Cecilia Dean, a former model and a founder of Visionaire magazine, and David Colman, journalist, illustrator, stylist, and art and fashion contributor for the New York Times. They’ll be joined by the carioca Antonio Haslauer, a prominent figure in the internationalisation of Brazilian fashion, to put on the show’s latest rendering.
Encouraging interaction between different artists – duos or trios from distinct disciplines have been grouped together to curate the show’s eight installations in real time – and spurring audience involvement, MOVE! challenges the establishment by making fashion both collaborative and transparent.
With artist Vik Muniz, Calvin Klein designer Francisco Costa, graffiti collective Banzai Studio and many others pairing up to prompt the public, there’ll surely be an eclectic array of installations, performances or looks.
The ‘Splash’ piece (above), a hit from the 2010 edition, is one such example. Throwing dye onto courageous volunteers wearing clothes designed by the US designer Cynthia Rowley, who works alongside Swiss artist Olaf Breuning, the result is part fashion collection, part art – the whole process is documented by a photographer. If you’re not keen on being doused in dye come dinnertime, fret not – you can have a shower on SESC premises.
New to MOVE!, ‘Graficouture’ fuses graffiti and haute couture, and features a working studio – the aforementioned Banzai Studio will be tagging pieces of fabric to be used as raw material for a sewing workshop. Guided by assistants, you can try your hand at sewing the patterns designed by the fashion designer Pedro Lourenço.
Perhaps the quirkiest of the lot, ‘Ligatura’ proposes an exchange, and a reflection on the influence we have on one another. After giving an article of clothing to artist Maurício Ianês, who will wear it regardless of size, you’ll receive a fresh made one by the designer Alexandre Herchcovitch, who’ll then continue sewing new ones. Finally, a fashion show that takes the shirt off your back, literally, and gives one back – all for free.