Updated on 11/6/2012
Fashion fever is taking hold of the city as the top designers, fashion editors and a whole host of sharply-dressed hangers-on descend on the Bienal building in Parque do Ibirapuera for 6 days of São Paulo Fashion Week's summer 2013 catwalk shows, from 11-16 June 2012.
The theme for this season is sustainability, a term that's in fashion in more ways than one. Keep an eye out for the designs from Bahian designer Vitorino Campos, making his SPFW debut, as well as the laid-back looks from Têca por Helô Rocha. Paula Raia's summer collections are always ones to look out for. And the veteran Ronaldo Fraga is back (after ducking out of the January 2012 edition), along with Forum, whose designs are back on the SPFW catwalk after five years.
You may not have blagged front-row seats or even a hot ticket to the after-party, but that doesn't mean you can't get your own fashion fix. We've picked out eight of the designers showing at SPFW, and brought you the low-down on their style, and where to go in São Paulo to buy, or simply try on, their designs.
The designer store line-up:
Alexandre Herchcovitch | Animale | Colcci | Fernanda Yamamoto | Gloria Coelho | João Pimenta | Osklen | Reinaldo Lourenço | Tufi Duek
Rua Melo Alves, 561, Jardim Paulista, 4306 6475, herchcovitch.uol.com.br
Currently one of the most important names in Brazilian design, Herchcovitch has fashion in his blood. His mother taught him to sew at a tender age, and by the age of 22 he’d opened his first boutique.
The shy 39-year-old designer is known for possessing a business acumen as sharp as his artistic talents. His store, which recently moved to a new address in Jardins, sells everyday objects like notebooks and diaries, as well as home decor and sunglasses. Herchcovitch often incorporates skulls and macabre symbolism into his clothes, which need a larger-than-life personality to carry them off.
SPFW catwalk show: Monday 11 June, 5.45pm (womenswear); Friday 15 June, 6.30pm (menswear)
Rua Bela Cintra 2164, Jardim Paulista, 3068 8043, animale.com.br
Founded in 1991, Animale today has more than 60 stores throughout Brazil and only uses top model Raquel Zimmermann in its campaigns. It was a surprise, then, to see Rosie Huntington-Whiteley opening the brand’s SPFW winter 2012 show, wearing pieces inspired by Russia’s reign of the tsars. Catch the British actress walking the runway once again wearing the Summer 2013 collection. Animale is best known for adapting more conceptual, powerful pieces into practical everyday looks.
SPFW catwalk show: Monday 11 June, 4.30 pm
Morumbi Shopping, Avenida Roque Petroni Junior 1089, 5181 1980, colcci.com.br
|Colcci autumn/winter 2012 collection
Colcci is part of the same group that owns Tufi Duek, and it continues to create trends and churn out modern designs that are a world away from the nice but fairly dull looks that first launched the Santa Catarina brand back in 1986. It was only in 2005, in fact, with Gisele Bündchen as the face of the brand, that Colcci started to become cool. The stores have a lively vibe, replete with bright lights and vivid hues of purple, orange and green.
SPFW catwalk show: Thursday 14 June, 9.30 pm.
Rua Aspicuelta 441, Vila Madalena, 3032 7979, fernandayamamoto.com.br
For those with a good eye for detail, it’s easy to spot the subtle mix of contrasts in Fernanda Yamamoto’s designs: they're fashionable, yet accessible; eye-catching and also understated. The Vila Madalena store features clothes that are designed by Yamamoto as well as other budding designers. Watch out for bold geometric prints and her use of unusual materials such as paper and felt.
SPFW catwalk show: Saturday 16 January, 5pm
Read more on Fernanda Yamamoto
Rua Bela Cintra 2173, Jardim Paulista, 3085 6671, gloriacoelho.com.br
Press image/Marcia Madeira and Bob Wolfenson
One of the grand dames of Brazilian fashion, Gloria Coelho is famous for perfectionism and the influence of astrology on her collections. Originally from Minas Gerais, Coelho started out making clothes for her classmates at school before heading to Paris to study fashion. She returned to Brazil in 1974, joining her sister to open their boutique, G. Almost thirty years later, Coelho rebranded her clothing line with her own name. A highlight of her SPFW Summer 2012 collection were leather trousers and futuristic dresses.
SPFW catwalk show: Friday 15 June, 5pm
Rua Mourato Coelho 676, Vila Madalena, 3034 2415, joaopimenta.com.br
João Pimenta's menswear designs don't shy away from innovation and provocation: don’t be suprised to find a skirt among the shorts and T-shirts filling the racks. The store's decor is all about contrasts, with naked light bulbs shining against black walls and the black curtains around the dressing rooms. The prices are suprisingly reasonable, and even more so right now with a sale on until the end of January.
SPFW catwalk show: Thursday 14 June, 4.30pm
Rua Oscar Freire, 645, Jardim Paulista, 3083 7977, osklen.com
From a low-fi start in the '80s when physician Oskar Metsavaht designed some cold-weather outfits for an expedition with friends to climb Aconcágua in Argentina, Osklen has grown to establish a reputation as an adventurous brand. Clothes of that kind simply didn’t exist in Brazil at that time, and were such a big hit that Metsavaht opened a snow-wear shop – ironically – in the middle of oven-hot Rio de Janeiro.
The Rua Oscar Freire store is fitted out with rustic wood and iron, with laid-back, tasteful decor. The fashion forward clothes are grouped by themes, be it pattern, cut or fabric type.
SPFW catwalk show: Thursday 14 June, 8pm
Rua Bela Cintra 2167, Jardim Paulista, 3085 8150, reinaldolourenco.com
Hailing from Presidente Prudente in the interior of São Paulo state, Reinaldo Lourenço is known for his impeccable understanding of the female form. At the tender age of eighteen, after studying fashion in Paris, he began to work as the assistant for Gloria Coelho, an established designer who would become his wife of 25 years – the couple separated in 2009. Both Lourenço and Coelho have participated in São Paulo Fashion Week since its inception, but they’ve built individual reputations and repertoires, with Lourenço being dubbed the ‘hi-glam Brazilian designer’ by British Vogue. .
SPFW catwalk show: Friday 15 June, 11.30am
Rua Oscar Freire 916, Jardim Paulista, 3085 6269, tufiduek.com.br
|Tufi Duek winter 2012 collection
Headed up by designer Eduardo Pombal, this brand continues to be a beacon of sophistication and perfectionism, combined with creativity and impeccable taste. Tufi Duek has been showing its collections since 1996, back in São Paulo Fashion Week's former incarnation as Morumbi Fashion. For the Winter 2012 collection, Pombal gave a bold and futuristic touch to the womenswear collection, inspired by the works of the multifaceted American writer Norman Mailer.
SPFW catwalk show: Monday 11 June, 7pm.