Time Out São Paulo

SPFW Winter 2012, day by day

You won't need the front-row seats with our round-up of the action and fashion from São Paulo Fashion Week Winter 2012.

Monday January 23, 2012

Ashton Kutcher may have stolen the limelight on Sunday with his brief appearance at São Paulo Fashion Week, and then again on Monday, tweeting about ‘surfing’  in the torrential rain that was wreaking havoc across the city. But Monday’s designers didn’t fail to make their own splash.

Gloria Coelho mixed minimalist lines and geometric shapes in materials that started with cow hide and went all the way to the other end of the girly spectrum with ruffles in pale pink organza. Another lover of geometric lines, Maria Bonita, presented sharp tailoring in long jackets and collared dresses. Inspired by the Northeast of Brazil, tones were sandy, with (to-die-for) shoes braided with raffia.

Known for their trendy work attire, Uma Raquel Davidowicz did what they do best with basic classics while João Pimenta continued to go way out and beyond with a collection that left us wondering which gender he was designing for (it’s for men, BTW). Think Johnny Depp as Sweeney Todd, with tailoring straight from Victorian London, with dark brown leathers, waistcoasts and sinister drama. And as for the floor-length black dresses… (did we mention he designs for men?)

Rounding off the evening, Lino Villaventura showed a menagerie of materials – velvets, tafetas and organzas – in asymmetric shapes and gothic shades of purple, red and black, creating a look somewhere between a Francis Bacon painting and the outline of the Sydney Opera House.


Sunday January 22, 2012

There was no rest for the wicked this Sunday, as the fashion houses continued to cook up delicious designs for their catwalk shows. Cavalera kicked the day off with an open-air catwalk show, on the other side of town from the Bienal building in Centro’s Estação da Luz. Keeping the looks sizzling hot, chilli peppers adorned bold colour prints, contrasting with strong black ensembles with spurred boots and black feathered hats.

Moving on towards the afternoon, Jefferson Kulig laid on a good spread with a herbal flavour. Greens, yellows and browns and appliqué flowers were only missing the mad hatter to complete the afternoon tea setting. FH por Fause Haten, on the other hand, brought strong, tropical colors and prints to the catwalk – the Cuba Libre aperitif before the black tie dinner – with green satins and orange floral motifs.

From the Caribbean to India, Juliana Jabour’s creations wove silky fabrics in shades of turmeric-yellow, saffron-red and a gorgeous mystic blue. Moving from Indian summer to autumn colours, Colcci’s collection was more of a smörgåsbord of aubergines, olive greens and teal in leathers and knits. A fashion feast indeed.


Saturday January 21 2012

Leathers, furs, feathers and metal – it was all about texture in Saturday's catwalk shows. Take Reinaldo Lourenço, for example. With more than a daring dash of festish, he dressed his models in black vinyl and furs. Don't think cheap sex shop, but rather courtesans' boudoir. Leathers, fingerless gloves and oversized belts were all part of the dominatrix look of the Ellus show. We imagine no-one dared to put a foot out of line backstage.

Cooling things down a notch, Huis Clos veered more towards the sensuous than the sexy with soft velvets swishing down the catwalk. Ending the day, Samuel Cirnansck wowed the audience with designs worthy of a rococo artist. Feathers and furs, in rich golds against stark blacks and whites, evoked all the pomp and excess of a Louis XV court.

Friday January 20, 2012

Friday night is movie night, right? The fashion houses that took to the catwalks on the second day of São Paulo Fashion Week must have all been having the same Friday feeling as us, as we couldn't help but think each one was cut straight out of some of our favourite movies. 

Take the young Pedro Lourenço’s models, for instance, working the mad scientist look with sunglasses not unlike those of Doc Brown from Back to the Future – minus the electrified white hair. 

R.Rosner – a label making makes its debut this season – was less geek and more goth glam, with a catwalk show straight out of Francis Ford Coppola’s Bram Stoker’s Dracula. Alexandre Herchcovitch on the other hand, lightened up the colours, though keeping things strictly ‘70s with plenty of suede and shades of camel and brown. The blond models had a whiff of Gyneth Paltrow's Margot from The Royal Tenembaums about them.

As for Iódice, we were feeling a minimalist tortured vibe with leather trousers and a heavy dose of black – the kind of look Lisbeth Salander from The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo might rock if she put as much effort into shopping as she did hacking. Rounding up the night, Triton took us west – way out to the Wild West and True Grit territory – with Indian prints, boyish cuts and some extreme middle partings.

Thursday January 19, 2012

São Paulo Fashion Week Winter 2012 kicked off under an enormous cloud of rain, and the fug of collective hangover as fashion editors and their entourages arrived with after-party fatigue from Milan Fashion Week. The first day’s collections seemed to sympathise with the lethargic mood of the assembled crowds, with natural make-up, comfort clothes and warm materials like faux fur and flowing organzas dominating the collections.

Animale kicked things off with black tones, boho details and poker-straight hair on the models. Tufi Duek’s show brightened up the post-lunch lull with a palette of white, grey and metallic tones in an austere, angular collection. Cori brought the assembled crowds back down to earth with neutral tones, camel-coloured hair accessories and models working the detoxing ‘earth mother’ look.

Closing the night, Osklen proved that the day after the night before isn’t entirely incompatible with fresh style, filling the catwalk with bright oranges and blues and fake furs. Now that’s a look we’d love to master next time we’ve got a hungover date with the sofa.

By Anita Porfirio


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